Lexpert Magazine

LEXPERT MAGAZINE | OCTOBER 2017 69 TRAVEL Hokkaido: Finding Japan Beyond Tokyo The island of Hokkaido offers delights off the beaten tourist path CedarCreek Estate Winery in Kelowna from former senator Ross Fitzpatrick, an acquisition that added more vineyard land to the Mission Hill group, now totaling some 800 hectares. In 2015 von Mandl finished the construction of his Martin's Lane winery in Kelowna, named for his late father. is state-of-the-art facility concentrates on Pinot Noir and Riesling. (At the 2013 Decanter World Wine Awards, Martin's Lane Pinot Noir 2011 took the trophy for the Best Pinot Noir in the World in the "under £15" category, which prompted the building of a winery dedicated to this brand.) e latest enterprise of the indefatigable Anthony von Mandl is CheckMate Artisanal Winery, set high in the hills of the southern Okanagan at the old Domaine Combret Estate Winery facility in Oliver, BC. Here the concentration is on Chardonnay and Merlot. To make these wines, Von Mandl reached out to an Australian winemaker at Williams Selyem Winery on the banks of Sonoma County's Russian River. Philip McGahan, a lawyer who saw the light and turned to wine, began his winemaking career in the Hunter Valley in New South Wales. A quiet, stu- dious man, McGahan had gained a great reputation as a Chardonnay specialist. CheckMate's chess motif is carried through to the names of the six Chardonnays produced in the Okanagan: Queen Taken, Attack, Little Pawn, Cap- ture, Knight's Challenge, and Fool's Mate. I am here to tell you that these are some of the best Chardonnays I have tasted from Canadian vineyards. If there were a Grand Cru system for wines grown along the Golden Mile Bench — the Okanagan's first and only sub-appellation so far — all of these wines would merit inclusion. I say that without reservation because I attended a blind tasting in Toronto recently at which the Check- Mate portfolio was pitted against some top white Burgundies and Chardonnays from Sonoma and Argentina, all vintage 2014. e CheckMate Chardonnays are not inexpen- sive. ey range in price from $80 (Fool's Mate) to $125 a bottle (Queen Taken) and are available for purchase online only to members of the CheckMate Club. Or, you might discover them on some exclusive restaurant wine lists. For his contribution to the Canadian wine indus- try, Anthony von Mandl was awarded the Order of Canada in June 2016. e citation read: "(for) inno- vative contributions to grape growing in the Okana- gan, and for creating world-class and award-winning wines that have enhanced Canada's international reputation in this industry." Well-deserved recognition indeed. YOU MAY HAVE SIPPED SAKE in the boardroom or dined on late-night sushi while prepping for a court appearance, but if your trip to Japan started and stopped at Tokyo, you missed out. On your next (or first) visit, skip the expected and head for Hokkaido. Here's why the northern island is worth the extra flight or rail time. > e history: e first people of Japan were the Jomon, who roamed the islands more than 6,000 years ago. e Ainu followed a few millennia later, and today many Japanese can trace their ancestry to these industrious tribes- people. You'll find museums, performances and artwork throughout Hok- kaido that celebrate these connections. Two to try are: the Ainu Museum in Shiraoi (pictured above) and the Hakodate Jomon Culture Center. www.ainu-museum.or.jp/en; www.hjcc.jp > e hot springs: Bathing in Japan is a communal pastime. Strip down (no bathing suits allowed) and get to know the locals at an Onsen; the vol- canos that make up much of the island mean there are plenty of warm mineral waters for a soak. While most hotels offer separate bathing areas for men and women, many also have unisex options. Two to try are: the Lake Akan Tsuruga Wings hotel, and the Windsor Hotel Toya Resort & Spa. www.tsurugagroup.com/en/hotels/wings.html; www.windsor-hotels.co.jp/en > e hillsides: Forget Tokyo's skyscraper skylines and head for the Hok- kaido hills. With more than a dozen volcanos, stunning mountain ranges and swimmable rivers and lakes, the area is an outdoor enthusiast's dream destina- tion. Milder summer weather than on the mainland offers chances to hike amidst wildflowers or cycle through small villages. Winter recreations include skiing, snowboarding and snowshoeing. Two to try: the Toya Caldera and Usu Volcano Geopark for a view to remember and an understanding of what it means to live beside an active volcano; and the International Crane Center in Akan for the Japanese red-crowned cranes saved from extinction. www.toya-usu-geopark.org/; aiccgrus.wixsite.com/aiccgrus/english-page | DETOURS | Heather Greenwood Davis is a lawyer and National Geographic Traveler contributing editor. Reach her at heather@globetrottingmama.com. Tony Aspler is the author of 17 books on wine, including his latest, Canadian Wineries. PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK

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